Rather than battling the bustle of Paris, why not pause in Troyes - a storybook town full of character, calm, and cobbled charm?

Tucked in the Champagne region, it’s the kind of place that quietly surprises you - perfect for a slow overnight stay or a scenic stopover that feels like more than just a break in your journey. One thing that’s handy to know right from the start - it’s pronounced “twah.” Let’s just say we got a few funny looks at the train station before someone kindly corrected us!

For the full experience, I highly recommend staying at La Maison de Rhodes or its equally beautiful sister hotel, Le Champ des Oiseaux. Both are tucked away in the heart of the old town, yet feel wonderfully peaceful - think timber-framed façades, leafy courtyards, and a sense of calm that makes it very hard to leave. These are not just places to sleep; they’re part of what makes Troyes so special. The added bonus for me was everything was accessible on foot from the hotel - just a ten to fifteen minute wander has you in the heart of Troyes.

Why Troyes Makes a Brilliant Stopover

Troyes is the kind of stopover that feels like a secret worth keeping. Perfectly positioned in the Champagne region, it offers a peaceful and picturesque alternative to the chaos of a lively Paris - ideal for breaking up a longer French road trip. With its half-timbered buildings, cobbled streets, and relaxed pace, it’s easy to slow down here, even just for a night or two. Whether you're en route to the Alps, the Côte d’Azur, or exploring more of northern France, Troyes gives you the chance to pause, recharge, and actually enjoy the journey - without battling traffic or sacrificing charm.

First Impressions: Half-Timbered Charm & Cobblestones

First impressions of Troyes? Half-timbered charm, winding cobbled lanes, and more than a hint of a Beauty & the Beast backdrop. It’s the kind of place that feels lifted from a storybook - all crooked windows, pastel shutters and golden-hour light bouncing off medieval rooftops. Picture-perfect at every turn.

Where We Stayed: La Maison de Rhodes & Le Champ des Oiseaux

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The food and drink were as memorable as the setting itself. Breakfast was served in a quiet courtyard draped with overhanging grapevines - the kind of spot that invites slow starts and second coffees. Dinner took place in an equally atmospheric courtyard, where the menu celebrated seasonal, organic ingredients wherever possible. Each dish complemented the next, creating a thoughtful rhythm throughout the menu that not only showcased the best of the produce but also cleverly minimised waste.

The family also owns a local bakery that’s well worth a visit - the selection is endless, and I had quite possibly the best strawberry éclair of my life. Tonton Farine is just a 15-minute walk from the hotel, and I can’t recommend it enough.

We visited in summer when temperatures were soaring to a balmy 30ºC, so the hotel’s plunge pool was more than welcome - especially with a crisp glass of Champagne in hand (when in Champagne, after all…) They even supplied the cutest sunhats!

Things to Do (Even in a Short Visit)

• A French Bakery - A coffee and cake at Tonton Farine is an absolute must. Even better - grab your treats to go and find a pretty spot nearby to sit and soak up the charm.
• Enjoy a leisurely lunch in the sunshine with a glass of local Champagne and a classic croque monsieur - simple, satisfying, and unmistakably French.
• Visit the Hélène Beaugrand vineyards for a relaxed Champagne tasting just outside of Troyes. Explore the vines, learn about the winemaking process, and sample elegant, small-batch cuvées from a passionate female winemaker - all set against a peaceful, scenic backdrop. A wonderful way to experience the region’s Champagne heritage in a more personal, down-to-earth setting. Find out more here.
• Visit the Musée d’Art Moderne, wander the peaceful canals, or explore the impressive stained glass museum — Troyes is full of quiet cultural gems just waiting to be discovered.
• Getting to Paris from Troyes is surprisingly easy - direct trains take around 1 hour 30 minutes, making it ideal for a day trip if you fancy ticking off the Eiffel Tower or soaking up the capital’s buzz. You get all the charm of a quiet base with the option to dip into the city when it suits.
• Relax - the joy is not rushing here

When in Troyes, don’t miss out on the regional classics - think andouillette (if you’re feeling brave), creamy Chaource cheese, buttery croissants, and of course, a glass of local Champagne to wash it all down. Vive la France!

Final Thoughts: More Than a Stopover

Troyes might be perfectly placed for a convenient night en route - but it’s also a destination worth lingering in. With its half-timbered streets, Champagne tastings, and some of the best courtyard dining I’ve experienced, this charming town offers far more than just a place to sleep. I left already planning a return.

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This stay was hosted, but all opinions are my own. The itinerary was independently planned around places and experiences I personally found interesting.